The invention of bra in 1914 became a turning point in history for women, because it not only changed the fashion, but also represented women’s emancipation. The Second World War had a huge impact on the role of women. Many women desired to be independent and refused to return to domesticity after the war. Their emancipation was also expressed as an interest in sport and demand for practical clothes. Elasticised corsets flattened breasts and everything was minimised. Underclothes needed to be unrestrictive – bra was solution to this and the first one was patented in 1914 by a 14-year old girl, who made it by pinning hankies together. In the 30s the idea of the cup size was invented, so women clients could get a better fit as well as a body shape similar to the Hollywood stars emphasised by glamorous silk clothes. Sports wear relied on the look of pert breasts expressing relaxed feminity. The ‘living bra’ was very popular in the 50s thanks to its elaborate design and comfortable feeling. In the 60s androgynous figure returned and there has been an increased usage of man-made fibres in underwear. The nylon underwear was cheap and plentiful. The ideal of thin figure continued in the 70s and female shape was de-emphasised due to political reasons. In the 80s many women longed to wear luxurious underwear and retailers like Calvin Klein, Victoria’s Secret and La Perla made a killing. The 90s became the period of the push-up bra, which was more than underwear. Women perceived it as an attitude representing girl power, no matter the social class. Women emancipation and independence could be expressed in luxurious Dolce and Gabbana jeweled corset as well as affordable Marks and Spencer chic.
