Women in trousers

World War 1 represented a huge change for women, not only in terms of their emancipation, but also their fashion. First attempts to introduce trousers by Amelia Jenks Bloomer in 1849 met with little success. In 1910 loose pyjama style outfits were created by designer Paul Poiret. They were exciting, but still too avant garde for many people. In 1915 trousers became common finally. Women called upon to war began to wear them and later also some agricultural labourers and women working in for the railways chose to wear trousers. Trousers became common in some professions, but this still didn’t lead to their usage in civilian life.

In the early 20s designers designers proposed lounging pyjamas for evening wear at home, including Turkish trousers suits or pyjamas. The open air cult became popular as well. The rich used to meet in the Riviera wearing casual dress, which was loose and comfortable. This clothes called beach pyjamas included trouser length pants.

By the end of the 20s, the popularity of leisure pyjamas increased among men. Some female tennis players wore men’s trousers as well. Masculine styling caught on and women expressed their emancipation by wearing trousers and men’s suits. Women needed courage to wear such clothes, but many of them wanted to contradict social conventions and wear liberated dress in public. This style was epitomized by Marlene Dietrich, who became famous for wearing man’s suits with trousers, particularly in her film Morocco in 1930. In the mid 30s a major change in women’s fashion took place. Women in slacks became common in magazines and also in civilian life. Their clothes represented confidence and independence.

The attitude of woman in the Second World War changed so much that women entered active service and their uniforms included trousers, which influenced significantly also civilian fashions. After the end of the war, many women returned to wearing usual female clothes and skirts. They wanted to look feminine again. Christian Dior, based on this new women’s attitude, launched his New Look in 1947.